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n Ideal Waves
Waves in Shallow Water
11 other sections not shown
basin beach face Berge Istra berm boat bottom breakers breakwater California Cape Horn capillary waves caused changes cliff coast coastal currents deep water depth Dukw dunes effect engineer erosion feet high feet long flow force harbor hulled ship hundred feet internal waves island jetties land large waves littoral drift low tide measured meters miles moon motion moving observed ocean offshore orbit Pacific period PLATE pressure pump record reef refraction rip current ripples rock sea level sea surface seaward seiching shallow water ship sinkings shore shoreline side slope small waves solitary waves speed steep storm waves structure surfboard surfer swell tank tidal tide gauge tion transport trough tsunami turbine underwater usually velocity vertical Walter Munk water level water particles water surface wave action wave channel wave crest wave energy wave form wave front wave height wave length wave of translation wind wooden sailing ships