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able acclimatised Alps altitude ascent avalanches Base Camp breathing British Camp VII carried Cho Oyu climb climbers cold column of porters couloir crampons crest crevasse Dawa Tenzing decided descent Diehl difficulty equipment Ernst Reiss experience feet foot Geneva Spur Grimm height Himalaya Icefall Imjya Kangchenjunga Katmandu Khumbu Glacier knew later Leuthold Lhotse Face Lhotse Glacier Lhotse's liaison officer litres loads looked Luchsinger and Reiss Luchsinger's Makalu masks Miiller monastery monsoon moraine morning mountain moved Namche Bazar Nepal night Norbu Nuptse oxygen oxygen apparatus oxygen bottles oxygen supply party Pasang Dawa Lama Pasang Phutar peaks Pheriche Phurba pitch possible Pumori radio reached reconnaissance rock route rucksacks Sahibs Schmied and Marmet Sherpas shoulder Sirdar sleeping-bags slope snow soon South Col South Summit spite steep Swiss tent Thyangboche took traverse tsampa valley weather Western Cwm wind Yellow Band