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4Wave Height Distributions
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Army Engineer Waterways Atlantic Ocean bathymetry beta beta distribution bins cell Chapter characteristic direction characteristic frequencies characteristic wave height characterize climatology Coastal common wave computed continental shelf contour coordinate count matrix data set database defined discrete frequency discrete wave distribution of wave Engineer Waterways Experiment Equation estimate of joint frequency-direction spectra FRF 8-m array FRF data FRF observations gamma gauge Harvest Platform data Harvest Platform observations height and direction height and frequency height-direction high-frequency waves Hmo,f indicate joint distributions joint probability density log-normal marginal distributions marginal probability mean direction modal peak modified exponential nearshore number of observations Pacific Ocean percent occurrence probability density function probability parameter space representing shore normal shown in Figure Southern California Bight southern swell span spectral peak frequency spectrum storms study sites Table three parameters three-dimensional triplets U.S. Army Engineer U.S. east coast Waterways Experiment Station wave climate wave conditions wave energy