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acclimatisation avalanche Base Camp belay bergschrund Bharat Bishnu bivvy bivvy sac blood body boulders breath carry cerebral oedema Cherie Chris Chandler Chris's climbers climbing cold cook crampons crevasse Czechs deep Dharan Dhaulagiri drink equipment Everest expedition feel feet felt fixed line fluid frostbite frozen Ghunsa glacier going hands high altitude Himalayas ice axe ice gully ice screws icefall Jim Whittaker Kanchenjunga Kathmandu Kusang Lhotse liaison officer loads looked Lori Makalu Mongol morning mountain move needed Nepal night north face ourselves oxygen pack Pang Pema Peak Photo Chris Chandler porters problem rappel realised recognised Rene Daumal rock band rope route Sanglai seemed Sherpa sleeping slopes snow terrace started stood stop stove summit Tamang Tamur River temperature tent thing thought tion Tirthay took trail trip turned waiting walked wanted warm warmth watched wind winter Yalung Kang