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acclimatisation acclimatization adventure Alpine arete ascent Assault attempt avalanche Base Camp breathing carry climb climbers cold coolies couloir crest crevasse descend difficulty East Rongbuk Glacier Eric Shipton Everest expeditions exhausted experience final pyramid four Francis Younghusband Geoffrey Bruce George Mallory H. W. Tilman height high altitudes higher Himalayas Howard Somervell Hugh Ruttledge India James Ramsey Ullman Kanchenjunga ledge loads looked Makalu Mallory and Irvine Mallory's miles monsoon morning Morshead moun Mount Everest Nanda Devi Nanga Parbat Nepal night Noel Norton Odell oxygen oxygen apparatus party passed peaks perhaps porters possible reach the summit reached Camp reconnaissance ridge rock Rongbuk Glacier rope route second step seemed Sherpas Shipton side slabs sleep sleeping-bags slopes Smythe snow Somervell spirit steep struggle tain tent thing thousand feet Tibet Tibetan tion traverse valley Wager weather whole wind Wyn Harris