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angle approximately average basin bottom friction breaker breakwater Bretschneider calculations chart cnoidal wave Coastal Engineering coefficient Column component computations contours cosh deep water determined Diffraction direction of wave distance dunes effects Equation estimate EXAMPLE PROBLEM feet fetch length forecasting function geostrophic wind given Gravity Waves group velocity harbor hindcasting hurricane Hurricane Camille incident wave isobars Lake longshore longshore transport method motion nautical miles observations obtained ocean offshore orthogonal parameters particle displacement peak surge pressure propagation Rayleigh distribution sand seiches shallow water shore shoreline shown in Figure significant wave height solitary wave solution stillwater level storm surge Table C-l tanh transport Tsunami U.S. Army velocity vertical water depth water level water particle water surface Water Waves wave approach wave celerity wave crest wave energy wave period wave prediction Wave Refraction wave setup wave theory wavelength width Wiegel wind setup wind speed