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can be made to look like six. A trimming on the top of the sleeve, is a great improvement to thin persons, and, to my taste, really pretty. It should match the bottom part of the Bleeve and body trimming. Let it all match. Most sleeves are now cut on the straight, but cross will do. This must be decided by the wearer, and sometimes by the material. If it is stripes, they do not always look well on straight way; and if a sleeve is tight to the arm, it would hardly fit on the straight. In making up any open sleeve, lay the material on" the lining, cut them both the same size, and tack them together flat on the table. Line the bottom of the sleeve with silk to match the dress, or a piece like the dress, about three inches deep. Put your sleeve together, and let the fullness for the elbow come in the half of your seam. Stitch up your sleeves, and nicely sew them over. Do not leave large turnings. If the material is not soft, you had better stitch up three pieces of your sleeve, and let one side of your lining fell over the three other pieces, and you will find this quite neat. Don't forget to cut both sleeves at once; that is the outside double, and the lining double. Double your material and lay the two right sides together; you cannot then make up both sleeves for one arm, a very common occurrence with young beginners. One good'pattern is absolutely necessary for cutting out your sleeves. Some persons think almost anything will do for a sleeve pattern; it is a mistake; no part of a dress requires a better pattern to cut by.
Skirts: How to make them.
Supposing you have measured over your material, have your inch measure ready to cut the skirt from it. It is a good plan to write down in a little book the number of inches long your skirt is required. Measure it at the back of the dress, and then from the seam under the arm. The slope begins here, and gradually goes to the point. Lay the skirt on a table, and have both halves exact, pin them together at the bottom, and pull them even at top. A dressmaker would have a person to hold the skirt at the bottom, while she made it even at the top. Put seam to seam. Care should be taken to cut your skirt even, every breadth the same length; and let your seams be nicely pinned before you begin to run them. Make yourself a heavy cushion, to pin your seams to. A common brick covered makes a very good one. In cutting off the skirt, if the length, we will suppose, should be forty-two or forty-six inches long, leave four inches more for the hem and turnings at the top. Cut the lining for the skirt exact to the material, and mind it fits when finished. Supposing you to have run the seams of the skirt and the seams of your lining, lay the lining on the table, placing the skirt on top. and then tack the seams of your skirt to the lining. Begin at the first seam, and gradually go on to the last seam; stitch up three pieces together, and fell over the fourth; having done this, hem the bottom. Fix your hem all round before you begin, and do not take the stitches through; unless your hem is tacked or pinned, it will be sure to be on the twist, and set badly. Having done this, run on your braid, which must be put on easy, or rather full. Attend to this, or you will spoil the set of the skirt. If the skirt is to have flounces, they must be put on before you guage the top; and while the skirt is on the table, put a white tacking thread round the skirt where each flounce is to be fixed. Flounces take the same quantity of material if cut either on the straight or the^cross. It is a common error to suppose they take more on the cross. For the fullness of a flounce allow one width on the cross to one width on Me straight of your skirt; so that if you have six widths in your skirt, you will have six widths in your flounces on the cross. If there are three flounces of different widths, let the bottom and widest one have the most fullness j three inches more fullness will be sufficient. If the flounces are on the straight, allow eight widths in the flounce to six widths in the skirt. A small cord run in at the top of the flounce makes it look neat. Before running the cord in your flounce, join it round the exact size of the skirt; join round likewise your flounces, and full them on the cord as you go on. Halve and quarter your flounces and also the skirt, and you will find them no trouble to put on.
To cut flounces on a good cross, have the material on a table, and turn down one corner in the exact shape of half a pocket handkerchief, and then cut it through. In turning down your half, try two ways; one way lays flat on the table when folded, and the other does not look so flat, cut through the latter. In silk there is no perceptible difference which way you cut it; but in crape you will very easily observe it. Take any piece you have by you, and try it while reading this. Now begin to turn down your material on the cross, like a gentleman folds his neckerchief; keep folding until you have the number of pieces you want for one flounce, and keep each one pinned to the other as you fold them, so as to leave them all exact in width. Mind the edges measure exact. Supposing you to keep turning each one as you fold it. If the flounces are to be nine inches, cut the selvage the same depth. Some persons are at a great loss to know how much three or four flounces will take. Supposing you to have three flounces, one ten, one eight, and one six inches deep at the selvage, the flounce of ten inches wide would take not quite one yard and three-quarters; that of eight inches, one yard a quarter and three inches; and that of six inches, exactly one yard; making in all four yards for three flounces; this, you will understand, is for flounces cut on the cross or straight in any material you may wish to use. I should advise you to have paper and pencil and your inch measure, and reckon before you purchase your material. Trimmings down the front of a dress, when on the cross, should be cut the same as flounces. In trimming the front of a skirt, it is a good plan to cut a paper the length of the skirt, and pin it on the way you intend to trim, and then tack a tacking thread by ft. Put tackings wherever you mean to trim, beforo you begin trimming, and lay your skirt on a table to do it; put on all trimmings with a light hand: do not sew them as you would a shirt, it gives them a puckered look. Now mind a giK>d cross, no attempts at making pieces do, unless they are good corner pieces that will join well; you are more sure of making a trimming well, if cut all from one piece. Before cutting a skirt off, that you wish to put tucks in, have a piece of lining or calico at hand, pin the tucks in it as you wish to put them in your skirt. Supposing you to have pinned your calico exactly like one width of your skirt, take out your pins and measure with an inch measure the exact quantity, and then calculate the quantity you will wnnt for the whole skirt. As a general rule, a tucked skirt takes more than a flounced one, and makes less show for the quantity of material used. When running seams of a silk skirt, notch the selvage all the way up the scams of every breadth, and pass a moderately warm iron over the seams when finished; seams in a merino skirt, require to be run thickly and pressed open; press every join you make in every part of a dress. In guaging a skirt of any kind, guage the fonr back widths in larger stitches than you guage the three front ones: the rule in guaging is to take as much on your needle as you leave; '» that is, if you took up on your needle a quarter of an inch, you would leave a quarter of an inch; this size would do for the back gathers, but the front must be smaller. All seams should be run with silk the color of the dress. It is a good plan to have fine black thread in your work box, to sew waists on and guage the skirts of a dark dress.'
Cloaks: How to make them. . v
Supposing you to have a pattern of a cloak that suits you, if it is a paper pattern you have bought, before cutting your material, cut the shape in lining and fit it on; in case it should be too large or too small in the neck or shoulder, pin it the size you require, and before taking out the pins put a black tacking thread in, to mark the size you want it; having done this, untack the lining and lay it on your material, and then proceed to cat out your cloak. What ever you are going to line the cloak with, must be cut the same size as the outside. If the cloak is not lined, and there are white selvages on the silk, be sure to cut them off it is very ugly to see a black cloak on the wrong side with white selvages. If you trim your cloak with lace, and it measures three yards round, put four and a half yards of lace On,—wide lace requires more fullness than narrow. Gimpe and fringe require to be put on easy. To make up a winter cloak, it generally requires to have wadding in it. Buy two or three sheets of good white wadding—white is better than black for anything; beforo opening the sheets of wadding, lay them before a fire for half an hour, they will then open nicely in the middle; they are better opened by two persons than by one; if the wadding is a little thick, all the better; pull off a little of the soft part and leave the skin. Lay your silk lining on the table, the wadding on top, the soft part towards the silk, keeping the skin side up; lay one sheet of wadding on first, and tack it all over with white cotton in large stitches; having done this, have ready the finest black cotton, you can get, or fine black sewing silk; have ready your inch measure, place a row of pins an inch apart, and now put a stitch in place of each pin, and so keep going on throughout the cloak that your stitches form squares of an inch. Mind, the silk must be cut out one inch larger than the shape of your cloak before you begin to wad it. If you wish to quilt a cloak, the wadding and silk are prepared in just the same manner, and it is a matter of taste which you do. Thin flannel is sometimes used to line cloaks with, but to my taste very ugly, there is nothing like good wadding for warmth, for dresses, petticoat^ or any thing else. To see if a cloak sets well, it had better be fitted on some one before quite finished: any part on the cross always will droop a little, and requires care in filing. If you trim a cloak with velvet or any light trimming, do it before you line the cloak; fur or heavy trimmings are better put on after the cloak is lined, but don't take the stitches through. Half of any round table will make a very good pattern for a cloak; cut a piece out of the part where the middle of the table comes, half the size of the top of a gentleman's hat: now make two pleats on each shoulder; this is the round or circular cloak, which is now worn; lined or not lined they do equally well.
, General Remarks.
Cut your plain skirt off the piece first, body and sleeves after, leave your trimmings to the last: large turnings are bad and w^ste the stuff; measure carefully and cut exact. I have met with many who fail in making a dress, owing to their really cutting every part of the body too large, and getting confused; recollect to cut all your body double, that is, the two halves of front, and the two halves of back, at the same time. When you are about to commence a dress, have the following things in a basket or box at your hand, viz.: sewing silk, the color of the dress,—one or two reels of cotton, fine and coarse—a pair of scissors, not small—a penny inch measure, you can procure one at a trimming shop; don't cut without a measure, and always measure all that you have bought or have given you for a dress, before you begin to cut.
ART OF GOOD BEHAVIOR,
There are numberless writers upon this subject, from Chesterfield to Willis, but the great fault with all of them is, that their works are designed exclusively for the ban ton. They are very well for those who spend their whole lives in the fashionable circles; but if a plain, unpretending man or woman wore to follow their directions, they would only make themselves ridiculous.
In view of this fact, I shall now present a few plain directions