Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide

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The Mountaineers Books, 2007 - Sports & Recreation - 250 pages
2 Reviews
"Climbing anchors allow climbers to safely defy gravity. Solid anchors and proper rope techniques can prevent a fall from turning into a catastrophe, while bad anchors are an accident waiting to happen," says certified guide Craig Luebben, who invented his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Since then, he taught rock climbing to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the United States. He distills more than twenty-five years of experience into Rock Climbing Anchors. This entry in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series, for intermediate-to-advanced climbers, presents modern anchoring ideas and techniques for top-roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and mountaineering-all in one comprehensive guide. Luebben covers the finer points of all types of commonly used anchors: removable anchors including hexes, wired nuts, tri-cams, expanding wedges, expandable tubes, and cams; natural anchors such as trees and boulders; and fixed anchors like bolts and pitons. Photos show a variety of gear placements, accompanied by discussion of the pros and cons of each.
  

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Review: Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series)

User Review  - Tammyxo. - Goodreads

awesome for reference, beginners and beyond Read full review

Review: Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series)

User Review  - Justin - Goodreads

This book is a great resource in addition to taking a class or having a mentor teach you first hand for those just starting out. Plenty of advanced information and setups make this a solid reference for those with more experience as well. Read full review

Contents

Toprope anchors
21
Sport climbing anchors
23
Lead protection
24
Aid and big wall climbing
25
How many anchors?
28
How important is equalization
29
Preequalized anchors
30
Selfequalizing anchors
33
Cam testing
111
Slingshot top rope
122
Top belay
124
Rappel anchors
129
Clipping bolts
140
Rigging tip anchors for lowering and toproping
144
Multipitch belay anchors
145
Belay station
151

Vangle
38
Pulley effect
39
Multidirectional anchors
40
Belaying the second
45
Belaying the leader
50
Rock type and rock quality
52
Natural anchors
57
Fixed anchors
63
Evolution of climbing rocks
75
Wired nuts
76
Hexagonal chocks
85
Tricams
86
Sliding nuts
88
Expandable tubes
89
Size and strength
92
Cam evolution
100
Setting and removing cams
106
Good and bad cam placements
108
Belay rigging methods
152
Cordelette craft
157
Minimalist rigging with slings
169
Rigging with the climbing rope
172
Trad leading
181
Protecting the climb
182
Newtons laws of motion
197
Potential and kinetic energy
198
Impact force
200
Impulse and momentum
203
Strength of climbing gear
206
Webbing Cord and Carabiners
208
Knots
212
Appendix 3 Equations
233
Glossary
235
Resources
243
Index
245
Copyright

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About the author (2007)

CRAIG LUEBBEN guided professionally for more than twenty-five years. The author of Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills and additional climbing titles, Craig also worked as a climbing guide and freelance climbing writer; writing pieces for magazines such as Climbing and Rock & Ice. Craig died in a tragic climbing accident in August of 2009 while climbing the Torment-Forbidden Traverse route, a mile-long Grade III rock and ice route that connects Mount Torment and Forbidden Peak. As a well respected member of the climbing community - via his writing and instruction - he is missed deeply by all who knew him.

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