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1000 FREQUENCY Apalachicola Appendix approximation average Beach Erosion Board bottom friction Bretschneider BROWNSVILLE BURRWOOD CAPLEN computed continental shelf Cumulative frequency curves cusps cut and fill DEEP WATER SIGNIFICANT deep water wave deep water wind diagrams dredging equations EQUIVALENT DEEP WATER estimate feet fetch length Florida foreshore FREQUENCY OF OCCURRENCE frequency of wave grand mean Gulf of Mexico Height and period hindcast Isolines Lake Okeechobee levee maximum measured number of samples obtained offshore Onshore orbital velocity overtopping parallel-to-shore period groupings PERIOD IN SECONDS phi units Port Hueneme profiles random reference rods REFRACTION COEFFICIENTS rH SW sand level shallow water wave shelf shore significant wave height slope solitary wave station stratum systematic samples Texas values variability variance various water depths water wind waves wave crest wave data WAVE PERIOD Seconds wind speed wind velocity zone