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25 hours 25-hour period amount of cut amplitude apparent Attn average wave steepness beach cut Beach Erosion Board beach tended berm California centimeters Change in Kurtosis change in mean CHANGE IN SKEWNESS CHANGE IN SORTING change in wave CHANGES IN BEACH changing wave conditions contour Corps of Engineers cusps cut and fill cut or fill DAILY BEACH PROFILES ELEVATION AND CUT equilibrium value field observations FILL FIGURE foreshore FUNCTIONS OF BEACH graph Harlett Histograms and Cumulative initial beach elevation Journal of Sedimentary low tide March March 31 mean grain diameter mean grain size meters Monte Beach Naval Postgraduate School occurred Oceanography Ohio State University Petrology plotted in Figure PLOTTED WITH WAVE sampling interval sampling station sand samples sand texture seaward Sediment settling tube shown in Figure significant wave height sorting coefficient Southern Monterey Bay STATION E KEY Technical Memorandum textural parameters Tide Data upper beach wave record WAVE STEEPNESS VALUES