## Wind Waves: Their Generation and Propagation on the Ocean SurfaceClassic study offers extended discussion of the data requirements and details of power spectral analysis required to make the wave revolution intelligible. Enhanced and clarified by 270 figures and illustrations, the text outlines the nature of waves and wave processes and methods of measurement and classification. 40 black-and-white photographs. 213 figures. 17 tables. |

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### Contents

WAVES OF FINITE HEIGHTn which we abandon | 241 |

THE SVERDRUPMUNK THEORYin which we discover | 285 |

THE PIERSONNEUMANN THEORYin which | 362 |

THE DETERMINATION OF SPECTRA FROM WAVE | 424 |

motions of a freefloating buoy | 483 |

1O PERTURBATIONS OF IRROTATIONAL MOTION | 488 |

BIBLIOGRAPHY | 639 |

657 | |

### Common terms and phrases

amplitude analysis angle approximation assumption average axes boundary condition capillary waves components constant cosh cosine crest deep water deep-water density depth derived differential Dirac delta function direction energy spectrum equation exponential fetch filter finite fluid forecasting Fourier free surface frequency Gaussian gives gravity waves group velocity hyperbolic hyperbolic functions integral irrotational Laplace's equation linear Longuet-Higgins mathematical mean wind measured motion moving Munk Neumann nonlinear observed ocean surface waves ocean waves particle period phase speed phase velocity physical Pierson position pressure problem refraction resonance result sea surface shallow water sinusoid slope small-amplitude solution space spectra stationary statistical Stokes stream function streamline Substituting Suppose tanh theory transform turbulent variables vector viscosity vorticity water surface wave field wave height wave length wave number wave record wave-number wind speed zero