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MOUNT EVEREST 195
North to Everest By Elizabeth S Cowles
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acclimatisation afternoon Alpine altitude arrived ascent Asper attack Aubert avalanches base camp Bolivian climb climbers cold comrades coolies couloir crampons crevasses crossed Darjeeling descended Dittert Dudh Kosi Eperon des Genevois equipment expedition face fjord Flory followed foot geological gorges Greenland Gregory Glacier height Himalaya Hofstetter ice-axe ice-cap ice-fall Illampu Illimani immense Jossi Katmandu Khola Khumbu Glacier lake Lama Lambert Land Lhotse loads lower massif monsoon moraine morning Mount Everest mountain Namche Bazar nappes Nepal Nepalese night north summit north-west nunatak Nuptse oxygen party pass peak photographs pitched Plate plateau porters possible Pumori reached Rebitsch reconnaissance ridge Roch rock Rongbuk Rongbuk Glacier rope route scree seracs Sherpas side skis sleeping-bags slopes snow Solimana South steep Tensing tent Thyangboche Tibet Tibetan Tilman took track traverse upper valley village walls weather Western Cwm wind zone