The Hidden Consumer: Masculinities, Fashion and City Life 1860-1914
This innovative book uncovers the consuming habits of urban men from the second half of the nineteenth century to the outbreak of the First World War. It focuses on the fraught relationships that emerged at this time between ideal models of manly behavior and attitudes towards the expression of sexual and class identities through the medium of dress. The period has been identified by many historians as a crucial moment in the development of a commodity culture, and its characteristics have generally been discussed in terms of a "feminization" of practices linked with shopping and fashionable display. In a challenge to the accepted picture, Christopher Breward tracks previously hidden connections between the formation of popular sartorial models for male consumers, the organization of associated retail industries and the promotion of new leisure activities.
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advertising Albert Victor appearance aristocratic Austin Reed bachelor behaviour Bodleian Library BOIS DE BOULOGNE boots BOULOGNE boys celebrated century clerks clothier collar colour consumption context culture customers dandy dandyism descriptions display Draper dress fancy Fashion plate feminine figure fitting forms frock coat garments gender gloves HIDDEN CONSUMER historians hosier Ibid identities jackets John Adcock John Johnson Collection leisure London London's maze look lounge suit male Manchester manliness masculine masher material men's clothing menswear middle-class mode models modern morning coat music hall nineteenth nineteenth-century offered outfitters Oxford Petit Bourgeoisie pleasure popular position Practical Retail promotion ready-made representation rhetoric role sartorial Savile Row sexual shirts shops silk social society spectacle sphere stereotypes Street style suburban suggested Tailor and Cutter taste tion trade trousers University of Oxford University Press urban Vesta Tilley Victorian visual waistcoat wardrobe wear West End window women working-class worn young