Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars
With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life.
Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave— that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.
As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
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Review: Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect WaveUser Review - Lindsay - Goodreads
Quite possibly the best book I could have picked for sitting around for two days on jury duty. It is so easy to get lost in Heller's adventures--I laughed and cried (AWKWARD WHEN IT HAPPENS IN THE ... Read full review
Review: Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect WaveUser Review - Thom Britten - Goodreads
This made me want to buy a Vannagan and drive through Mexico, seriously I thought how can I try this. I loved the story about how he fell in love with ocean, fell in love with the woman he was with ... Read full review
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