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approximation basin Beach Erosion Board bottom breaker breakwater Bretschneider calculations chart cnoidal wave Coastal Engineering coefficient Column computations contours Corps of Engineers cosh deep water deepwater determined diagrams Diffraction direction of wave Equation estimate EXAMPLE PROBLEM feet fetch function geostrophic wind given Gravity Waves group velocity harbor hindcasting hurricane Hurricane Camille incident wave isobars Lake linear littoral longshore longshore transport method motion nautical miles numerical observations obtained ocean offshore orthogonal parameters peak surge pressure propagation Rayleigh distribution sand seiches shallow water shore shoreline shown in Figure significant wave height slope solitary wave storm surge tanh tide transport Tsunami U.S. Army U.S. Weather Bureau velocity vertical water depth water level water particle water surface Water Waves wave approach wave crest wave energy wave period wave prediction Wave Refraction wave setup wave theory wavelength width wind speed