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admire Altar arches architecture Artesonado artist Avila Baedeker Baroque beauty building built CALATAYUD capital carved Castile Castilian CATALONIA Cathedral century chapel charm Ciudad Rodrigo classic colour course crossing delightful dome door Douro Ebro effect elaborate Escorial esthetic facade figures French gilt give granite Greco grey Guadarrama height hill Homo Alpinus Hontanon hour impressive interior Italian Jesuits late Gothic later less Limpia-botas look Madrid magnificent mediaeval merienda Moncloa Moorish mouldings Mudejar mystery nave never once painted palace Pamplona peculiar perhaps piece Pilar pilasters plain Plateresque Plaza Mayor Prado proportions pure ravine rectangular relief religious Renaissance rich richly Rococo Romanesque round sacristan Salamanca Saragossa sculpture seems Segovia side slopes space Spain Spaniards Spanish Spanish language stands stone strangely street style surface Toledo Toro tower town train transepts vague Valladolid valley vault Visigothic walls whole window Zamora