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acceleration amplitude analysis approximation attenuation average basin beach bottom shear stress boundary condition calculated California channel computed constant correlation corresponding cosh Crescent City crest curves cylinder determined deviation diameter dimensionless distribution of wave drag coefficient drag force effect eigenvalues energy Engineering equation experimental Figure flow fluid free surface frequency friction Hilo horizontal Hurricane Dora inertial forces Keulegan laboratory length linear maximum measured mode of oscillation momentum motion obtained order theories parameters particle velocity pile plotted pressure probability distribution problem ratio Rayleigh distribution resonance Reynolds number riser roughness Seiches setup shear stress side walls similitude slope solitary wave solution spectral density standing water Stokes Stream function strips surface shear stress transversal tsunami values velocity distribution vertical water depth water surface shear wave force wave height wave period wave theory Weibull distribution width Wiegel wind zero