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accom accomplished ahead angle antic arms balsaboards basic beach bend big waves board slides body weight bottom turn breakers breaking wave catch a wave crests curl cutting back Dewey Weber downhill rail drag easier executed experience face faster feel feet foam Foamboards forward frog kick front George Downing getting going GOOFY FOOT Grip the rails hollow J. J. Moon keep kick knees left-foot lead legs lined-up Malibu maneuver Mickey Munoz Mike Doyle move nose-riding ocean peak breaks Phil Edwards plished POPOUT prone paddling pull push rear Rip Currents Robert Patterson roll running scissor-kicking shift shore shoulder shuffling side skeg sliding right slightly slow speed sport stall-out standing Island pull-out steep straight stringer stroke surfboard surfing's swim tail tailblock take-off spot technique TRIMMING THE BOARD turn the board twisting hip motion type of surf Virginia Beach wave breaks wave passes wave's white water wind