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Abakan Alexei apartment blocks appeared arrived asked banya began bicycle bikes Blagoveshchensk bottle bread cabin cafe camp church close clothes collective farm Communist Party crowd cycled dacha door English everything factories felt foreigners forest Gilles glasnost Gorbachev grey Howard huge Irkutsk journey Kazakh Kazakhstan kilo kilometres kitchen Krasnoyarsk kvass Lake Baikal landscape Lenin Leningrad live looked Magnitogorsk Maksim massive meal meat military minutes months morning Moscow night nomenklatura Olga panniers passed perestroika police queue railway rain realised Red Square replied restaurant river road roubles round Russian Sasha seemed Sergei shops Siberia Skovorodino Soviet Union SovIntersport Stalin stolovaya stopped street stretched swamp talk Tatiana told took town track tsars turned Urals USSR village Vitale Vladivostok vodka waiting walked wheel woman wooden