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SOURCE AND NATURE OF DATA
WAVE VARIABILITY AND MARGINAL DISTRIBUTIONS
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amount of sand analysis average bay-mouth Beach Erosion Board Bretschneider capillary wave coast computed correlation coefficient CUMULATIVE DISTRIBUTIONS curve deep water depth design-hurricane determined distribution function effect equation feet fetch length forcing functions formula frequency fully developed sea gaging stations given gravity wave hurricane Hurricane Audrey Hurricane Hazel joint distribution knots Lake Okeechobee Lake Texoma linear marginal distribution maximum mean square sea mean wave period measurements method Neumann obtained offshore stations oscillations parameter Percent of wave prediction pressure Rayleigh distribution regression relationship sand movement sand particles sand transported sand trap shallow water shown in Figure significant wave spectrum square sea surface square wave standard deviation statistical storm tide storm-tide elevations surface creep Table tests theoretical versus water level wave data wave length wave records wave spectra width wind speed wind tunnel wind velocity Wind Waves York Bay zero correlation