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accretion analysis barrier islands beach material beach profile beach ridges bottom break-point breaker changes Chesil Beach cliff coast coastal considered curves cusps deep water deposition depth direction drift dunes effect equation equilibrium erosion eustatic fetch foreshore formation Gibraltar Point grains groynes increase lagoon landward Lincolnshire longshore currents longshore drift longshore movement longshore transport marsh maximum measured median diameter method movement of material normal North Sea observations occur onshore particles pattern pebbles processes recorded relationship rip currents ripples samples sandy sea level seaward sediment shallow water shingle shore shown in figure Skegness slope spit storm waves submarine bars surf surface swash swell tidal range tidal streams tide tombolo transport variables velocity W. C. Krumbein water level wave action wave approach wave energy wave height wave length wave period wave steepness wave tank wind