Crack Climbing!

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Globe Pequot, Oct 14, 2008 - Sports & Recreation - 138 pages
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Crack climbing continues to be a hugely popular pursuit among the general climbing population--in fact, in recent years crack climbing (or "trad" climbing) has experienced a significant resurgence. Through the use of text, photos, and illustrations, this book explores in-depth the wide range of techniques required to successfully climb cracks. The book starts with how to make the transition from indoor climbing and sport climbing to traditional crack climbing, then moves on to cover topics such as jamming techniques (finger, hand, fist, foot, body), strategies on when and where to place protection, strategies that apply to specific rock types (the soft sandstone of Canyonlands vs. the slippery granite of Yosemite), strategies that apply to specific rock features (low-angle slabs vs. overhanging roof cracks), and information on how to obtain the psychological edge required to be a successful crack climber.

  

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Contents

Jamming
3
OffWidths and Chimneys
17
Training and Resting
37
Nuts and Hexes
53
More About Placing Protection 69
122
Special Placements and Considerations 86
137
Copyright

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About the author (2008)

About Lisa Rock climbing has been Lisa Gnade's primary focus for more than 20 years. Climbing is more than an activity or a sport; it's her way of life. She began climbing during her years as a student at Flagstaff's Northern Arizona University, in order to fulfill a required credit in physical education. That was an unplanned, but gratifying turning point in life, the pursuit of 9 - 5 having gone astray. Years of climbing and living the dream have been their own reward. Her favorite climbing areas include Indian Creek, Frankenjura, Kalymnos, Arkansas Sandstone, Paradise Forks, Arco and Mallorca to name a few. Extensive climbing related trips throughout Europe and the western US, and the effort to complete many climbing goals, have helped bring to life Lisa's "seize the day" attitude. Now, seizing the opportunity to work as importer and distributor, doing sales management duties, and covering territory as a sales representative for DMM and Wild Country climbing equipment and Red Chili climbing shoes, she finds herself with even greater appreciation for time on the rock. Her companion in both work and leisure is husband and fellow climbing enthusiast, Steve Petro. When not climbing or working, Lisa can be found resort skiing in the Wasatch, reading foreign language and history textbooks for entertainment, or spending time with her five furry children, the cats. Climbing Background First woman in the world to consistently climb 5.13 cracks (both First Free Ascents and repeats of many established lines) Has Climbed equally difficult routes on both Sport and Crack routes 5.13c, dozens of 5.13's Has been climbing for more than 20 years Hardest FFA by a woman in Germany's Frankenjura in 1998 Has been a guide for a major service and enjoys teaching Has enjoyed climbing in at least a dozen countries Continues to climb locally, nationally and in fabulous locations worldwide About Steve Rock climbing has been Steve Petro's main athletic interest for the last 30 years. He is renowned for his many first ascents in Utah's Canyonlands and various locations in Wyoming. Steve has climbed extensively, throughout the United States and Europe. His favorite climbing areas include Indian Creek, American Fork, Frankenjura, Kalymnos, Arkansas Sandstone, Spanish limestone and of course his old stomping ground, Fremont Canyon. His linebacker s physique and powerful climbing style continue to draw stares from onlookers, even at age 54! Steve supports his climbing lifestyle by working as CEO for Excalibur, importer of DMM and Wild Country climbing hardware and Red Chili shoes. When not climbing or working, Steve enjoys snowboarding, traveling and reading books about current affairs, history and myths. Climbing Background First Free Ascent of the 1800' route, Wind and Sand and Stars 5.12c in Zion National Park with Jeff Lowe and Lisa Gnade First Free Ascent of the 1000' route, Shimmering Abstraction 5.11 in the Bighorn Mountains First person to free climb the most difficult route, 5.12, in the Tetons, on Mt Moran First Free Ascent of Fiddler on the Roof, 1987, Wyoming s premier roof crack More than 100 First Free Ascents (FFA's) Has climbed equally difficult (up to 5.13d) routes on both Sport and Traditional routes Nearly one hundred 5.13 s on his tick list, trad and sport Has climbed vertical frozen waterfalls in the late 70's and early 80's

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