A Glossary of Silk Terms, Including a Short History of Silk: Its Origin, Culture and Manufacture

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Cheney Brothers, 1915 - Silk industry - 95 pages
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Page 32 - ... cocoon. Cleaning. — A treatment given to raw silk to remove nibs, slugs, etc. The removing of spots, stains, etc., from woven goods. Coal-tar colors. — Brilliant coloring matters, extracted from coal tar. Cockling. — A damage in silk goods from irregular shrinkage of the filling. Cocoon. — The silken covering that the silkworm spins about itself. Conditioning. — The exact determination of the weight of silk on the basis of its normal condition, ie, absolute dry weight plus 11 per cent....
Page 32 - Chafe-marks. — Whitish marks in piece dyed goods, due to roughening or displacement of fibers. Chains (Fr. pr. shane). — Warp. China curlies. — A variety of waste made in reeling China raw silk. Chop. — The brand used to identify any make of Asiatic raw silk. Chrysalis. — The pupa of the silkworm, enclosed in the cocoon. Cleaning. — A treatment given to raw silk to remove nibs, slugs, etc. The removing of spots, stains, etc., from woven goods. Coal-tar colors. — Brilliant coloring matters,...
Page 46 - Silk" in general; ie, silk goods, silk mills, silk trade, etc. Soleil (Fr. pr. sol-ay, "the sun"). — Often used in connection with fabric names. Souple silk. — Dyed skein-silk from which but little gum has been discharged. Silk so treated is firmer but less lustrous. Soutache (Fr. pr. soo-tash). — A braid. Spaces. — The openings in the batten of a ribbon loom. Split-edge. — Goods woven two or more widths together, being afterwards cut or split apart.
Page 49 - ... Water-proofing. — Treatment for rendering fabrics impervious to moisture. Weave. — The manner of interlacing the threads in a fabric. The construction or design. Weaving. — The interlacing of the weft with the warp in fabric construction. Weft. — The crosswise threads in a fabric. The filling. Weighting. — The loading used to increase the weight and bulk of silk. Winding. — Transferring silk from skeins on to bobbins. Woof. — Same as weft. Woolen yarn. — Carded-wool yarn, generally...
Page 46 - The tie-up of a Jacquard loom where each end works singly. SINGLE-WEAVING. The weaving of warps made of single rawsilk ends, unthrown. SIZING. The treatment of warps, or other threads, or goods, with a size to render them firm and smooth. Also the testing of yarns to determine their sizes. SKEIN. Threads reeled into a coil or hank. Usually 45 to 54 inches in circumference. SKEIN-DYEING. The boiling-off, weighting, coloring, etc., of silks, or other skein yarns. SLUGS. Soft thick lumps in a yarn....
Page 48 - ... color. — A dyestuff compounded chemically to duplicate a natural coloring matter. Tael. — A Chinese measure of value, approximately 11/3 oz. av. of silver, but varying in different districts. There is no current coin of the tael. Value in US gold is approximately .642 for the Canton tael and .588 for the Shanghai tael, but varies with the price of silver. Tartan. — A scotch woolen stuff, woven in the patterns of the plaids of Highland clans; hence used as a synonym of a clan plaid. Teinte...
Page 46 - Soie ondee (Fr. pr. swah-ong-day, literally, "silk undulated"). — Silk prepared by doubling and twisting together. a very coarse and a very fine thread. When used for making gauze, it imparts to it a watered appearance. Soierie (Fr. pr. swah-ree). — "Silk" in general ie, silk goods, silk mills, silk trade, etc. Soleil (Fr. pr. sol-ay, "the sun"). — Often used in connection with fabric names. Souple silk. — Dyed skein-silk from which but little gum has been discharged. Silk so treated is firmer...
Page 48 - ... There is no current coin of the tael. Value in US gold is approximately .642 for the Canton tael and .588 for the Shanghai tael, but varies with the price of silver. Tartan. — A scotch woolen stuff, woven in the patterns of the plaids of Highland clans; hence used as a synonym of a clan plaid. Teinte (Fr. pr. tant). — Tint. Color shade. Tender goods. — Fabrics not commercially strong enough for their intended uses, including those made weak by improper dyeing. Three-scale. — A method...
Page 56 - Gloria. — A durable plain-weave cloth with silk warp and worsted filling, used for umbrella covers. Cotton filled glorias are also made. Gossamer. — A very soft and cobwebby silk gauze, used for veilings. Granite weave. — A pattern of small irregular character, like granite. Grenadine, American. — A coarse, heavy grenadine, plain or figured. Grenadine, French. — (Englishwrought silk for making lace.) An open-work gauze-like silk fabric, plain or figured, woven with cloups and generally...
Page 48 - ... doubled and twisted. Used for filling. Traverse. — A to-and-fro motion as in winding silk on a bobbin. Trevet, trivet (Eng.) ; Trevette (Fr.) — The sliding knife or cutter used in cutting velvets woven double. Tussah, tussur, tussore. — Wild-silk, of a brownish color, largely produced in India and China. Twisting-in. — The uniting of the threads of a new warp to those of one woven out, by twisting the threads together. Twist-silk. — Silk thread prepared for sewing purposes. Type piece....

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