Accessorizing the Body: Habits of Being I
Cristina Giorcelli, Paula Rabinowitz
U of Minnesota Press, 2011 - Design - 249 pages
The first in the four-part series Habits of Being, charting the social, cultural, and political expression of clothing as seen on the street and in museums, in films and literature, and in advertisements and magazines, this volume features a close-up focus on accessories—the shoe, the hat, the necklace—intimately connected to the body.
These essays, most of which have appeared in the cutting-edge Italian series Abito e Identitŕ;, offer new theoretical and historical takes on the role of clothing, dress, and accessories in the construction of the modern subject. With contributions by leading scholars in art history, semiotics, literary and film studies, history and fashion studies, and with additional writings by psychoanalysts, textile artists, and fashion designers from Europe and America, readers will encounter a dizzying array of ideas about the modern body and the ways in which we dress it.
From perspectives on the “model body” to Sonia Delaunay’s designs, from Fascist-era Spanish women’s prescribed ways of dressing to Futurist vests, from Barbara Stanwyck’s anklet to Salvatore Ferragamo’s sandals, from a poet’s tiara to a worker’s cap, from the scarlet letter to the yellow star: Accessorizing the Body imparts startling insights into how much the most modest accessory might reveal.
Contributors: Zsófia Bán, Eotvos Lorand U, Budapest; Martha Banta, U of California, Los Angeles; Vittoria C. Caratozzolo, U of Rome “La Sapienza”; Paola Colaiacomo, U of Rome “La Sapienza”; Maria Damon, U of Minnesota; Giuliana Di Febo, U of Rome Three; Micol Fontana; Manuela Fraire; Becky Peterson, U of New Mexico; Jeffrey C. Stewart, U of California, Santa Barbara; Vito Zagarrio, U of Rome Three; Franca Zoccoli.
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ACCESSORIZING THE MODERNIST BODY
1 No Frills NoBody Nobody
2 The Cult of Femininity
SONIA DELAUNAYS FASHIONABLE CLOTHES
5 Futurist Accessories
ACCESSORIES FOR NEW WAYS OF BEING A WOMAN
LAURA RIDING HER TIARA AND THE PETRARCHAN MUSE
IRONIC DISCOURSE IN FATELESSNESS BY IMRE KERTÉSZ
11 Black Hattitude
THE OTHER SHOE
FETISHIZING THE GOODS
ITALIAN SHOES AND THE POSTWORLD WAR II INTERNATIONAL SCENE
IN CLOSINGCLOSE CLOTHING
8 Spanish Womens Clothing during the Long PostCivil War Period
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accessories aesthetic American appeared artist beauty become Black body boy’s clothing Coco Chanel colors costumes created culture decorated Delaunay’s designed desire diƒerent dress dynamic eƒect elegant essay fashion Fatelessness female feminine fetish FIGURE film Fitzgerald Fontana Sisters Freud Futurist Gabrielle Chanel garment Gatsby gender Giacomo Balla girl Giuseppe De Santis hats heels House of Chanel Hurston Ibid Italian jewels Kertész Laura Riding literary living look magazine male manifesto mannequin Marinetti means men’s Micol Fontana Moda en Espańa modern modernist movement mujer muse necklace Nicole object oƒers one’s painting Paris Petrarch Petrarchan photograph poem poet poetry Press Riding’s Riso amaro role Rome sandals scene Scott Fitzgerald sexual shape shoes Silvana social Sonia Delaunay Spanish streets style symbols textile things tiara tion tradition trans visual walk wear White Goddess women wore worn writing yellow star York Zelda Zelda Fitzgerald Zora Zora Neale Hurston