Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher

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The Mountaineers Books, 2004 - Sports & Recreation - 325 pages
3 Reviews
This intermediate-level guide addresses tools, skills, and techniques used in alpine terrain including rock, snow, ice, and glaciers at moderate altitude--approximately 5,000 meters and lower.
 

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Not sure about the accuracy of the information in this book. The "bible" of ice climbing techniques, Ice Climbing by Yvonne Chouinard and other books by Greg Lowe and Craig Luebben all seem more or less in agreement with the names of the techniques that are here mis-named.
Piolet manche is the position where both hands are on the head and the spike is plunged deeply into the snow. The authors here refer to this without any French name and just, simply, "stake position" while using the name piolet manche for something else entirely.
And in all the other books I've seen, Piolet appui isn't a blanket term for three positions but is, instead, the position where the shaft is held with the hand as a support rail. It's especially useful on descent but can be used on ascent to, where it's sometimes known as "middle dagger".
Pretty sure this book I'm reviewing here has these names mixed up.
 

User Review - Flag as inappropriate

Great book! Not for beginners, but intermediate climbing levels. It gave me a lot of nice tips and tricks to learn, and more confidence in decision making. Especially i liked the realistic and honest approach, considering time and ease as important alpine factors rather than giving fixed teaching book rules. 

Contents

IV
14
V
15
VI
20
VII
25
VIII
30
IX
31
X
52
XI
63
XXIV
196
XXVI
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XXVII
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XXVIII
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XXIX
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XXX
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XXXI
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XXXII
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XII
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XIV
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XV
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XVI
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XVII
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XVIII
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XIX
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XXI
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XXII
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XXXIV
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XXXV
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XXXVI
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XXXVII
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XXXVIII
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XXXIX
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XL
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XLI
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XLIII
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Copyright

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About the author (2004)

MARK HOUSTON has been guiding and instructing others in climbing technique for other 20 years; he and Kathy started their climbing careers 26 years ago in the PNW and they got their start guiding with the American Alpine Institute (AAI) in Bellingham. Like Kathy, Mark is certified by the AMGA and IFMGA (American Mountain Guide Association and International Federation of Mountain Guides Assn. respectively); Mark was among the first to gain IFMGA status (in 1997). Mark and Kathy made a very lightweight and fast ascent of the South Face of Aconcagua (43 hours). Mark and Kathy run their own small guiding company and lead trips all over the world, throughout the year. KATHY COSLEY has been guiding and instructing others in climbing technique for other 20 years; she and Mark started their climbing careers 26 years ago in the PNW and they got their start guiding with the American Alpine Institute (AAI) in Bellingham. They run their own small guiding company and lead trips all overthe world, throughout the year. Kathy is certified by the AMGA and IFMGA (American Mountain Guide Association and International Federation of Mountain Guides Assn. respectively).Mark and Kathy made a very lightweight and fast ascent of the South Face of Aconcagua (43 hours). Kathy was the first American woman to climb the Eiger's North Face (1988) as well as the first American woman to climb Cerro Torre in Patagonia.

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