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17 threads 24 shaft 24 threads Allen Textile Collection Allen Textile Fund applied fringe border brick red catalogue numbers colors Compound weave controlled weave WARP coverlet pattern coverlets woven dark blue doublecloth Elvehjem Art Center equals four ends fabric in plain fabric with supplementary four block pattern handweavers inch cotton inch W.L. inch WEFT cotton inch wool Jacquard attachment Jacquard mechanism controlled light blue loom widths joined mechanism controlled weave motifs patterning wefts overshot Pennsylvania plain weave foundation point twill produced Profile draft raprog self-fringed set of warp sets of wefts shafts WARP cotton simple weaves square equals four summer and winter supplementary binding warp supplementary patterning wefts SUPPLEMENTARY WEFT terns threading drafts threads per inch traditional Treadling twill derivative twill weave twist United warp and weft warp ends warp threads weave foundation fabric weave structures weave WARP cotton weavers weft floats weft threads Whig Rose woven coverlet