AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British FashionMetropolitan Museum of Art, 2006 - 160 páginas Anglomania, the craze for all things English, gripped Europe during the mid-to-late 18th century. As perceived by Anglophiles such as Voltaire and Montesquieu, England was a land of reason, freedom, and tolerance, a place where the Enlightenment found its greatest expression. What began as an intellectual phenomenon, however, became and has remained a matter of style. Through the lens of fashion, "AngloMania" examines aspects of English culture, such as class, sport, royalty, pageantry, eccentricity, the gentleman, and the country garden, which have fuelled the European and American imagination. This beautiful book presents historical costumes juxtaposed with late 20th-and early 21st-century fashions by Hussein Chalayan, John Galliano, Stephen Jones, Shaun Leane, Alexander McQueen, Philip Treacy, and Vivienne Westwood. As with the hugely successful exhibition 'Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the 18th Century' at the Metropolitan Museum, the clothing is styled as a series of thematic vignettes in the Museum's English Period Rooms. This book comprises photographs of the installations along with text written by Andrew Bolton. From "AngloMania", we learn that Englishness is a romantic construct based on fictive and imaginary narratives. In terms of fashion, these narratives emerge as ones that are satirical, nostalgic, theatrical, and like the English weather, at once indomitable and unpredictable. |
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Alexander McQueen AngloMania autumn/winter Bequest black silk black wool bondage trousers British act British fashion British founded brocaded with polychrome Brummell Burberry coat Costume Institute Courtesy of Alexander Courtesy of John Courtesy of Manolo Courtesy of Philip Courtesy of Stephen dandy dress eighteenth century England English European Sculpture exhibition fox hunting French Gate of Calais Gift of Irwin ground brocaded Haute Couture Haute Couture British headdress Henry Poole Hogarth hunt balls Huntsman & Sons Hussein Chalayan Irwin Untermyer John Galliano Lady London Haute Couture Malcolm McLaren Manolo Blahnik Metropolitan Museum Museum of Art Oil on canvas Philip Treacy Philip Treacy London polychrome silk threads portrait Purchase red wool sartorial Sculpture and Decorative Shaun Leane silk tulle Simon Costin skirt Solomon Estate Spitalfields silk spring/summer 2000 Stephen Jones style suit synthetic stretch jersey Tapestry Timothy Everest Treacy London Haute trousers of black Vivienne Westwood white cotton William wool with black worn