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Preface by Lucien Devies
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able Adjiba Aila Ang-Tharkey Angawa Annapurna arrived avalanche Base Camp began bergschrund Biscante boots carried Chamonix climb clouds coolies couloir Couzy and Schatz crampons crevasse cross Dawatondu descend Dhaulagiri difficulty East glacier eight-thousander equipment everything Expedition eyes feeling feet felt foot Foutharkey G. B. Rana Gandaki hands heard height Himalaya ice-axe Jean Couzy Katmandu knew Lachenal and Rebuffat Lachenal's Lionel Terray loads looked Louis Lachenal Maharajah Manangbhot Marcel Ichac Marcel Schatz MAURICE HERZOG minutes Miristi Khola mist monsoon morning mountains move Muktinath Nepal night north face Noyelle o'clock Oudot Pansy party Peak pitch piton plateau porters reached reconnaissance ridge rock rope round route sack Sahib Sarki seracs Sherpas shouted sleeping-bag slope snow soon steep steps stopped suddenly summit tent Terray's thing thought Tilicho pass tomorrow took track tried Tukucha turn valley village wall weather wind yards