Underwear: a History
" 'Without foundations there can be no fashion', said Christian Dior. He might equally well have said: 'Without fashion there can be no foundations', for fashion is a shape, a changing shape, and that shape is mainly, and sometimes even wholly, formed and controlled by what is worn underneath it - by the corset and other underwear. To the student of the history of fashion it is hardly less essential to understand the contribution of the unseen than of the visible elements in the constantly changing feminine outline (and it is as well to stress that this book is concerned only with women's underwear). Elizabeth Ewing (an M.A. of Glasgow University, where she read English and Greek) has been closely connected with the fashion and foundationwear industries for many years. She is a fashion writer and historian. Her approach is given depth by an appreciation of the practical aspects of design, manufacture and application : what materials were used, how and by whom they were made up, how they were worn - these more mundane considerations are here for the first time given their proper weight. Although the book starts as far back as 3000 BC the prehistory of underwear remains shadowy at least until the reign of Elizabeth I. Thereafter Elizabeth Ewing traces in detail the part played by the hoop, stays, bum roll, panniers, petticoat, bodice, drawers, corset, brassiere, knickers, chemise, camisole and all the other contributors to what was outwardly seen. The influence of social pressures - women's emancipation, sport, the movement 'back to nature'; of the introduction of new materials and more sophisticated processes of manufacture; and always, overtly or covertly, of the sexual motivation underlying all fashion. Jean Webber's delicate line illustrations, and a full bibliography and index, complete this not unimportant contribution to the history of fashion." --
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Aertex Albert Museum artiﬁcial bands became began bodice body boned bosom brassiere Britain busk bust bodice bustle buttoned cami-knickers camisole chemise clothing colours combinations corselette corset corsetry Costume cotton crepe de Chine crinoline draped drawers dress early elastic Elizabethan embroidered fabrics factory farthingale fastening ﬁfties ﬁgure ﬁnd ﬁne ﬁrm ﬁrst ﬂannel ﬂat ﬂounces ﬂowing foundation garments foundationwear French frills front girdle girls hips hoops inﬂuence innovation introduced invented Jaeger knee-length knickers knitted lace ladies legs linen lingerie Lycra man-made ﬁbres manufacture Market Harborough Marks & Spencer material natural nineteenth century nylon outer fashion outerwear pantee patent petticoat pink produced quilted rayon ribbon round rubber satin sewing machine shape shoulder straps silk skirts sleeves slim staymaker stays steel stiffened stitched style Symington tight-lacing trade tricot trimmed tunic two-way stretch underclothing undergarments underwear usually Victorian waist wear whalebone women wool woollen worn