Big Wave: Stories of Riding the World's Wildest Water

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Clint Willis
Da Capo Press, 2003 - Sports & Recreation - 316 pages
1 Review
The impact of such films as Blue Crush and Step into Liquid (from the directors of the classic Endless Summer) have helped fuel a surfing renaissance that extends from aging baby-boomers down to upstart pre-teens. This boom is driving sales of surfer gear and duds—and set the stage for an Adrenaline Book that will do justice to the sport’s surprisingly long history, which dates to well before Captain Cook’s eighteenth century voyages of discovery. Big Wave taps into a lush literature that will appeal to virtual and visceral thrill-seekers of all ages. The book features great writing on every aspect of the sport: the exhilaration of riding tsunami-like breakers; the competition that drives surfers to defy death in the world’s most dangerous waters; the turf wars that can end in violence; the terror of shark attacks; and the sheer Zen-like beauty of riding a wave the way it’s meant to be ridden.
 

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The wedge parts are lacking in that they revise the historical facts to fit popular mythology. Actually Don Reddington, Chip Fitzwater, the Scanlons, Joe and Jim predate Fred Simpson by four or five years and were riding the big faces in 56 and 57. Don Hellman, Animal and many others were tearing up the wedge before Fred Simpson even knew the place existed. Micky Munoz put in an appearance, with his Churchill fins, but couldn't keep up with Don, Chip and Jim with their UDTs, Duckfeet, and Don Hellman's voit Vikings. Joe Quigg was also an early pioneer preferring the side wave across the face over the radical face rides. Judge Gardener, ever the defender of the Wedge has the historical part right in his Art of Body Surfing. Nancy Gardener was also an early pioneer at the Wedge demonstrating prowess in handling the big faces. 

Contents

from Caught InsideA Surfers Year on the California Coast
1
from In Search of Captain Zero
23
Fever and the First Wave
49
Mr Sunset Rides Again
63
Goodbye Sunshine Superman
81
Singular Achievement
111
Mavericks
123
Life Among the Swells
131
Something Wicked This Way Comes
163
Polynesian Surfing
173
Kaku
185
The Last Wave
211
The Animal
235
Alone
252
TheLastWave
287
Surf Dudes of Beach 89
305

Ufe Isnt Fair
153

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