Chasing Waves: A Surfer's Tale of Obsessive Wandering
Amy Waeschle shares her globe-trotting adventures and chronicles her evolution from a nervous newbie to a self-confident and skillful surfer: Cramming into a hot bus near Playa Linda, Mexico, clutching a beat-up foam body board. Quivering, blue-lipped, on a rocky beach after a session in Vancouver Island's icy swells. Braving explosions of ocean spray and hanging out with ski bums in Fiji. Discovering small villages and the essence of ''pura vida'' in Costa Rica. Finding a quick surf fix off the coast of Sicily ... For Waeschle, surfing is more of a feeling than a sport, a response to the freedom and grace of riding waves. And in the course of her surfing odyssey, she learns to balance love and family with her surf lust.
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Abner arms asked beach break began beneath big swell blue board shorts boat breath called camp’s catch caught inside Chasing Waves cliff coast cold Costa Rica couldn’t crowds deep didn’t Dillon driver drop edge Elsa eyes face feeling feet felt Fiji Fijian Flash Frigates front grin hair hard head horizon incoming waves Karen King Kong kook Kurt Kurt’s Leah leash lines of swell lineup longboard looked morning night nodded ocean Ollies paddle back paddled peeling perfect pulled rashguards reef Rick Rick’s ride road sand seemed set wave sharks shore shortboarders shrugged Sicily sitting smile spray squinted Steve stroked sunscreen sure surf camp Surf Sister surface surfboard surfers takeoff Tamarindo thick thought Tico tide tiny told tried trip trying turned Waeschle waiting walking wall wanted wasn’t watched we’d wetsuit white water wind Witch’s Rock wondered