Classic tailoring techniques: a construction guide for women's wear
This book is a detailed guide to the construction of women's wear; specifically, jackets, skirts, and pants. It examines patternmaking beginning with the taking of body measurements and discusses muslin fittings in depth, including illustrated instructions for making alterations (width of lapels, length of front darts, neckline fit, etc.) and adjustments for figure problems (swayback, bowlegs, prominent sear, etc.). It then covers the construction of each items from the layout and cutting of its fabric through the final pressing of the finished garment. Information on tailoring supplies and on the hand stitches used in women's tailoring is included.
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adjustment amount armhole body waist measurement bottom edge button buttonhole catching center back seam center front chalkline chalkmark collar notch creases cross-stitch dart diagonal double-piping pocket ease finished jacket flap folded edge foldline front and back fusible garment fabric gorge line grosgrain hip curve hip level inseam inside jacket back jacket lapel layers of fabric length Machine-stitch MANDARIN COLLAR matching neck edge neckline outer edge pants front pattern pieces peplum piece of pocketing piping plaid pleat pocket placement line press the seam prongs pulling reinforcement right side ripples roll line seam allowance seam open seamline sewn shoulder pad shoulder seam side panel side seam silk finishing thread skirt front slash steam press stiffening stitches stitchline straight grain straight skirt taper top and bottom top edge topcollar topsleeve topstitch Trim twill tape undercollar vent waistband waistline welt width wrong side zipper