Coastal And Estuarine Processes
World Scientific Publishing Company, Apr 21, 2009 - Science - 360 pages
This book covers water waves, surf zone hydrodynamics, tides in oceans and estuaries, storm surges, estuarine mixing, basic sediment transport, coastal morphodynamics and coastal groundwater dynamics.It is an introductory treatment, suitable for a first course in coastal and estuarine processes for earth scientists or engineers. Yet, there are substantial amounts of new material that are included, such as the explicit, analytical treatment of transient, forced long waves. Inclusion of this material will in turn strongly enhance the introductory treatment of tsunami, storm surges and surf beat.The treatment of sine wave theory emphasizes expressions which are explicit in the water depth h (using koh instead of kh) so that they can easily be differentiated or integrated with respect to h. This is a major pedagogical advantage because of the enhanced transparency.The treatment of turbulent mixing includes finite mixing length effects which provide an explanation for differential diffusion of different sediment sizes in suspension. The effects of acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming are also included in the basic sediment transport models.The inclusion of beach groundwater dynamics — including the mechanisms by which waves as well as tides drive groundwater motion — provides a link between the previously unconnected fields of coastal hydraulics and regional groundwater modeling.Serving as a good reference book, it is fully indexed and comprehensively cross referenced. Abundant references to more detailed texts are also provided.
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2 Surf zone hydrodynamics
3 Wind driven circulation and storm surges
5 Estuaries and estuarine hydraulics
6 Sediment transport mechanisms
8 Coastal groundwater dynamics
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analogy angular frequency approximation aquifer bed shear stress bedforms bedload behaviour bottom boundary layer breaking cf Figure concentration constant form continuity equation Coriolis effect corresponding deep water density depth diffusion dispersion relation dissipation effects energy erosion estuaries example Fickian flow fluid flux forced wave formula free waves frequency friction function gradient hence horizontal hydraulic hydraulic conductivity interface lagoon length linear long waves mixing moving Nielsen ocean oscillations peak propagate with constant Rayleigh distribution rip currents river roughness sand scale scenario seaward Section sediment transport sediment transport rate settling velocity setup shallow water equations shallow water waves shape shear stress Shields parameter shoreline shown in Figure sine wave slope small amplitude ſº solution speed steady surf zone surface elevation swash zone tidal tide tsunami turbulent usually vertical vortex ripples watertable wave height wave theory wind stress zero