Cruising the Gulags

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Lulu.com, 2007 - Travel - 212 pages
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In celebration of the founding of the Russian fleet by Peter the Great, The Dutch Coastal Cruising Association undertook a 4,800 European odyssey in 1994 that culminated in sailing the Russian inland waters between Archangel and the Baltic Sea. Fifteen sailboats hosted by the Archangel Yacht Club, became the first Western-flagged pleasure boats allowed on this militarily strategic waterway. The author crewed aboard Tiota and proudly flew the Stars and Stripes from her port spreader, heralding an American aboard. Whereas emerging "New Russians" viewed our fleet as a vanguard for future boat tourism, it seemed "Old Russians" made our voyage bureaucratically discouraging. Nowhere was this more evident than in the final passage along the River Neva through St. Petersburg. The rules stated that bridges could only open at night and sailboats could only sail during the day. A Russian Catch-22, with the winter ice steadily approaching.
 

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Contents

Before the Beginning
9
Bavaria Germany The Long Way to Holland
16
Ljubljana Slovenia Near a War Zone
24
Voorschoten The Netherlands Meeting the Crew
30
Holland God Created the World and the Dutch Made Holland
36
The North Sea Coping with Cold
42
Mandal Norway Life Aboard Tiota
47
Bergen Norway A Designer Coastline
53
Vadso Norway Instructions on Entering Russia
98
The White Sea Russia The Evil Empire
103
Archangel Russia Meeting Friendly Russians
110
Archangel Russia Navy Day and the KGB
117
Czar Peter the Great
134
Solovetskiye Islands Russia A Close Look at the Gulags
137
Povenets Russia Sailing into Bureaucracy
146
Petrozavodsk Russia Computer Hacking in Russia
153

Įlesund Norway Fjords Islands and More Fjords
59
Trondheim Norway Crossing the Arctic Circle
65
Bodo Norway Encounters with Email
70
Tromso Norway The Ethereal Lofotens
74
North Cape Puffins and the North Cape
82
Vardo Norway First Vodka Toast Na Zdorovye
84
Willem Barents
91
The History of Whaling
93
The River Svir Russia Back to the USSR
158
Petrokrepost Russia Russian Bandits
164
St Petersburg Russia The Bridges Finally Open
171
Tallinn Estonia Transition from East to West
182
The Hanseatic League
188
Visby Sweden The King Lives
191
Notes
195
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