Dandies: Fashion and Finesse in Art and Culture

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Susan Fillin-Yeh
NYU Press, 2001 - Art - 291 pages
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Dandies: Fashion and Finesse in Art and Culture considers the visual languages, politics, and poetics of personal appearance. Dandyism has been most closely associated with influential caucasian Western men-about-town, epitomized by the 19th century style-setting of Oscar Wilde and by Tom Wolfe's white suits. The essays collected here, however, examine the spectacle and workings of dandyism to reveal that these were not the only dandies. On the contrary, art historians, literary and cultural historians, and anthropologists identify unrecognized dandies flourishing among early 19th century Native Americans, in Soviet Latvia, in Africa, throughout the African-American diaspora, among women, and in the art world.

Moving beyond historical and fictional accounts of dandies, this volume juxtaposes theoretical models with evocative images and descriptions of clothing in order to link sartorial self-construction with artistic, social, and political self-invention. Taking into consideration the vast changes in thinking about identity in the academy, Dandies provides a compelling study of dandyism's destabilizing aesthetic enterprise.

Contributors: Jennifer Blessing, Susan Fillin-Yeh, Rhonda Garelick, Joe Lucchesi, Kim Miller, Robert E. Moore, Richard J. Powell, Carter Ratcliffe, and Mark Allen Svede.

 

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Contents

Anna Jun cover of Takarazuka Gurafu 1968
45
Sartorial Finesse
59
Martin Spedis WishramWasco Chinookan chief
88
Dandyism and Abstraction in a Universe Defined
101
Edouard Manet Portrait of Emile Zola 1868
106
Red
114
A Portrait 1921
128
Florine Stettheimer Family Portrait II 1933
137
Claude Cahun M R M Sex 1930
189
Claude Cahun SelfPortrait ca 1921
195
Mimicry
204
Gelede mask of Iju 1977
206
Sartor Africanus
217
Photograph from Chicago Defender 1927
218
Or What the Soviet Dandy
243
114
265

Romaine Brookss 1923
153
Romaine Brooks Self Portrait 1923
154
Giovanni Boldini James McNeill Whistler 1897
161
Claude Cahun Dandy Provocateuse
185
Quentin Crisp The Last Dandy?
270
119
284
Index
285
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About the author (2001)

Susan Fillin-Yeh is the author of "The Serpentine Lattice: Helen and Newton Harrison, The Technological Muse," and "Charles Sheeler: American Interiors.

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