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allow anchorage angle bearing bottom bowlines capstan car floor center line chain blocks chocks cob house convenient course crank cross timber cross-head crossed loops cylinder disks engine frame engine room erecting fast feet fly-wheel forces of reciprocation foundation-box front gallows frame gin pole hand winch handle head block heavy hight hitch hoist hold holes hook horizontal engine incline laid lashing leading line length lift load loop lowered luff main falls method mold move necessary needed nuts one-half piece pile pipe piston plank possible pull raised ready reciprocating engine rigging rolled rollers runway screw jack screwed shaft shoved shown in Fig side skids slack slide sling slip slope snatch block square stone jack stout stringers surface tackle templet thing tight timber tion tons turns vertical wagon wedges weight wheel whole windlass
Page 20 - Fig. 30, the two loops XX brought vertically down (after rolling) and ready for service. The block or fall must be hooked into both loops. The above is a safe and reliable hitch that can be wiggled in at any point in a rope, and besides being perfectly reliable, it is easily and quickly made and unmade. Fig.
Page 23 - Fig. 41) should Y be allowed to move. Then it, as a part of loop L, should be swung round the stick as shown at N. Setting the coils close and drawing up at M completes the job. Always, and above all, in using ropes do not abuse them. Bagging, burlap, even waste or paper, if the first are not to be had, should always be interposed between a rope and all hard, angled, even if not sharp, edges.
Page 18 - Fig. 20, is a reliable basket hitch when both slings are of equal length, or with one sling long enough to take in one-half of the cylinder's diameter and the other to run through both loops of the smaller and have its own loops catch the chain hook. Some people hoist a shaft endwise by using a collar or lathe-dog as a safety stay; others use the bitting-rolling hitch shown in Fig.
Page 23 - Fig. 40 is preferable for extra neat work, in that it does away with the bulge caused by the crossed loops. Until the loop X is got to all is plain sailing. The rope Y must then be held steadily in its place on the stick Z while the loop is swung around both it and the stick, as shown by the dotted outline. Only at the finish (shown in Fig.
Page 20 - Fig. 32 is a simple and safe way to take a temporary hold, but as the mere shifting of the weighted loop will suffice to loosen the whole rig, the need of keeping meddlers away must be obvious. Fig.
Page 18 - The bucket is hoisted above the floor level and then pulled in as the hoistway is reversed and made to lower away. It is a very common practice, in the absence of a ready-made endless sling, to tie a flat knot in a short length of rope and use it in lieu of a sling. Be careful to avoid a "granny knot,
Page 20 - Figure i6 shows a good and safe way, known as a sheepshank, of shortening a long rope. It is selfevident that any amount and any length of loop may be used, but it must be carefully borne in mind that at least a 6-in.
Page 22 - Fig. 13 cannot be used for second holds, and positively must not be used as a starter, or first hold, because, after fastening at C, it will be found both hard and dangerous to slip the hook out of it Either the doubled-up, non-slipping loop, Fig.