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FINITE AMPLITUDE WAVES
WAVE GENERATION BY WIND DEEP AND SHALLOW WATER
TIDES AND HARMONIC ANALYSIS
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amplitude approximation assumed average basin Beach Erosion Board bottom boundary condition breakwater channel component constant cosh currents curve cylinder deep water defined density depth direction distribution drag coefficient dredging effect energy dissipation Engineering entrance equation equilibrium estuary experimental flocculation flow fluid fresh water fresh-water friction function given harbor hurricane hydraulic incident wave Ippen Laplace's equation length lift forces littoral drift mass maximum method motion obtained ocean offshore oscillation parameter particle phase problem Proc ratio reflection coefficient resonance Reynolds number river saline wedge salinity salinity intrusion sand sediment shallow water shear shoaling shown in Fig sinh slope solitary wave solution standing wave tide tion transport turbulent U. S. Army upstream variation velocity potential vertical viscosity water surface water waves wave force wave height wave period wave theory wavelength width wind zero