Fashion and eroticism: ideals of feminine beauty from the Victorian era to the Jazz Age
The traditional image of the Victorian woman presents her as strait-laced and prudish, her clothing an outward sign of her sexual repression and exploitation. This situation supposedly persisted until the Women's Rights Movement and World War I forced the world to acknowledge that women were liberated individuals with legs. Yet Valerie steele demonstrates that eroticism formed the basis for the Victorian ideal of feminine beauty and fashion--indeed, that the concepts of beauty and fashion are essentially erotic. She shows that, far from being passive "sex objects," Victorian women, like their modern counterparts, themselves chose to emulate an erotic ideal as an aspect of their own self-fulfillment. Even the notorious corset was neither fetishistic nor an unhealthy instrument of torture, she argues, although its comlex and ambivalent sexual symbolism aroused controversy. Fashion and Eroticism shows how the New Look of "sexy" modern naturally from within the pre-war world of fashion and not as part of an intifashion movement.
Steele's conclusions are based on prodigious documentary evidence, including visual and material research, in costume collections in the United States, Great Britain, Europe, and even Japan. Fashiona and Eroticism is not only a radical revision of the Conventional understanding of Victorian fashion; it is a major contribution to the histyory of women and sexuality.
About the Author:
Valerie steele received her Ph.D. from Yale University in 1983, and was the 1984 First Ladies' Fellow at the Division of Costume, National Museum of American History, the Smithsonian Institution.
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adornment Aesthetic dress Antifeminism appearance argued associated attitudes bosom brassiere bust bustle colors concealment corset corsetry Costume crinoline culture David Kunzle decorative dress reformers Edwardian elegant emphasized erogenous zone erotic eroticism example exhibitionism expression fash fashion change fashion historians fashion journals Fashion plate female body feminine beauty femme fetishism fetishist figure Flugel France French Freud garments girls hair haute couture Havelock Ellis Haweis hips History idea ideal of beauty ideal of feminine interpretation Kunzle lace Lady Langley Moore legs lingerie London look Magazine male Mode modern modesty moral nineteenth century Paris Paul Poiret penis perceived period petticoats physical beauty Poiret popular psychology Queen Rational Dress repressed role sartorial seems sex appeal sexually attractive silk skirt social Society style Sylvia's Home Journal symbolism theory tight tight-lacing tion torian underwear Victorian fashion Vie Parisienne wear wearer women women's clothing women's fashion wore worn writer York