Generation of edge waves through nonlinear subharmonic resonance
Technological Institute, Northwestern University, 1973 - Science - 44 pages
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1969 Rip Currents A. J. Bowen Abscissa appear approach to 3.6 approximate neutral curve approximate solutions assumed beach of constant beach slope Bessel function coefficients crests parallel cross waves cross-section of wave D. L. Inman depend edge wave perturbation energy equation equation for a(t experimental data frequency fundamental edge wave Garrett Geophys Gravity waves growth rate Hill equation horizontal McGoldrick 1968 method of averaging National Science Foundation nondimensional amplitude NONLINEAR SUBHARMONIC RESONANCE Observations of Edge parametric resonance perturbation edge wave primary and perturbation primary wave terms progressive wave regarded as equations RESONANCE G. E. Birchfield resonant edge waves Resonant Instability resonant wave rigid beach rigid plane beach run-up limit shallow water approximation shoreline shown in Figure sloping beach standing perturbation edge standing primary wave SUBHARMONIC RESONANCE G. E. Surrey tank with rigid theoretical model two-timing solution Ursell wave maker wave periods wave tank wavelength WAVES THROUGH NONLINEAR waves with crests