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Stream Function Wave Theory and Applications
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amplitude angle approximation armor units ASCE beach bottom boundary breakwater Bretschneider calculated coast Coastal Engineering coefficient components crest curves cyclostrophic d/LA density dimensionless distribution function effect Equation erosion estimated extreme wave Fluid formulas frequency given Goda harbor heights and periods hindcast Hurricane Hurricane Camille Hurricane Eloise incident wave irregular wave layer linear Longuet-Higgins method nonlinear Ocean offshore parameter pile prediction pressure profile probability Proc radius of maximum random waves Rayleigh distribution refraction Resio return period rubble-mound sea level sea-level rise September 22 shallow water shore shoreline short-crested wave significant wave height slope spectral stability storm surge structure surface elevation tidal tide tion tsunami U.S. Army variables velocity velocity potential vertical water depth water level Water Waves wave data wave energy wave period wave pressure wave run-up wave spectrum wave steepness wave theory wavelength Weibull distribution