Mission Furniture: How to Make it, Part 1

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Popular Mechanics Company, 1909 - Furniture
 

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Page 8 - ... in. with a length of 13 in. Square up two pieces of the same kind of material to the same width and thickness, but with a length of 12 in. each. Square up two pieces to a width and length of 3 in. each with a thickness of 1% in.
Page 29 - The leather in high-top boots and gauntlet gloves may be softened and made waterproof by the use of plain mutton tallow. Apply hot and rub in well with the fingers How to Make a Mission Library Table The mission library table, the drawings for which are here given, has been found well proportioned and of pleasing appearance. It can be made of any of the several furniture woods in common use, such as selected, quarter-sawed white oak which will be found exceptionally pleasing in the effect produced....
Page 10 - J-in. radius. These parts may be put together and fastened to the upright by means of two long screws from the under side, placed to either side of the -in. hole. This hole must be continued through the pieces forming the base. The braces are easiest made by taking the two pieces which were planed to 1$ in. thick and 3 in. square and drawing a diagonal on each. Find the middle of this diagonal by drawing the central portion of the other diagonal; at this point place the spur of the bit and bore...
Page 79 - Month* the oak is fumed to the desired shade. Wood stained in this manner should not be French polished or varnished, hut waxed. The process of waxing is simple: Cut some beeswax into fine shreds and place them in a small pot or jar. Pour in a little turpentine, and set aside for half a day, giving it an occasional stir. The wax must be thoroughly dissolved and then more turpentine added until the preparation has the consistency of a thick cream. This can be applied to the wood with a rag and afterward...
Page 11 - When this is dry, sandpaper the "whiskers" which were raised by the water and fill with a medium dark filler. Directions will be found on the filler cans. When the filler has hardened, apply two coats of wax. The metal shade as shown in the sketch is a 'layout" for a copper or brass shade of a size suitable for this particular lamp.
Page 31 - Fig. 1 gives an assembly drawing showing the relation of the parts. Fig. 2 gives the detail of an end. The tenons for the side rails are laid off and the mortises placed in the post, as are those on the end. Care must be taken, however, not to cut any mortises on the post, below, as was done in cutting the stretcher mortises on the ends of the table. A good plan is to set the posts upright in the positions they are to occupy relative to one another and mark with pencil the approximate positions of...
Page 10 - The center of each hole will be 2-J in. from either end and in the crack between the pieces. The pieces can then be taken out, lines gauged on each side of each, and the wood between the holes removed with turning saw and scraper steel. The width of the grooves must be determined by laying one piece upon the other; a trysquare should be used to square the lines across the pieces, however, gauge for depth, gauging both pieces from their top surfaces. Chisel out the grooves and round off the corners...
Page 11 - Electric globes — two, three or four may be attached as shown. The kind of wood finish for the stand will depend upon the finish on the wooden shade, if shade is purchased. Brown Flemish is obtained by first staining the wood with Flemish water stain diluted by the addition of two parts water to one part stain. When this is dry, sandpaper the "whiskers" which were raised by the water and fill with a medium dark filler.
Page 3 - Like the magazine, these books are "written so you can understand it," and are intended to furnish information on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all. • The texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this Handbook Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and have been revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics.

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