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accidents Alpine Club ALPINE EXPEDITION Alpine Journal Alpine peaks Alps amateur angle arête ascent balance bergschrund better boulder bowline British rock-climbing carried Caucasus centre Chamonix Chapter climbers climbing clinometer compass cornice couloir course crampons crevasse dangerous Dent Blanche descent difficult easier easily easy edge Eric Greenwood experience face falling stones feet foot glacier glissading gloves guideless guides gully hands hard snow Harold Raeburn heavy heights hitch hold ice-axe ice-fall J. R. Young knot lady leader ledge less light loose maps Matterhorn method Mont Blanc mountain lassitude nailed boots névé novice ordinary party perhaps photographs piton places porter possible probably puttees ridge rock-climbing rocks rope round route rucksack safe Scottish Scottish Mountaineering Club séracs shaft short slope snow and ice spikes sport steep steps summit Swiss taken traverse usually walking weather wind worn دو دو
Popular passages
Page 76 - I girded up my clothes, and holding the edges of the lower part of my robe, slipped along. Instantly I was carried down and hurled to a depth of more than a hundred feet below. There I brought myself up by fixing my elbows into the snow like a brake, at the same time lifting my hinder part a little. Ugyen followed me in the furrow I had made, and would have dashed on me with his whole weight, had I not taken the precaution of turning myself to one side of the track.
Page 50 - Handholds and footholds are spoken of collectively as " holds " and when these are firm and plentiful, the rocks are said to be
Page 76 - Ugyen followed me in the furrow I had made, and would have dashed on me with his whole weight, had I not taken the precaution of turning myself to one side of the track. . . . In the third slide we met with slippery ice, rather than snow crystals, and consequently got pains in the back caused by friction on the hard substance.
Page 239 - It may be taken as an axiom in mountain craft, that the greater the rock-face, or mountain, the greater the certainty that a way up it exists." First in the technicalities of mountaineering, Raeburn places the art of balance. Without this inborn faculty one can hardly hope to attain brilliance as a climber. The number of climbers for a roped party is discussed, and it is shown that...
Page 90 - The authorities for this and all following sections will be found in the List of Books at the end of this work. II. The discovery of America was " the great event which gave a new wor not only to Spain, but to civilized man.
Page 45 - Think of everything you could possibly want on a climbing expedition, say, of thirty hours. Cut out from this all that you think might be fairly easily dispensed with. Take with you 50 per cent, of the remainder.
Page 207 - The rocks that roughly handle us, The peaks that will not go, The uniformly scandalous Condition of the snow.
Page 3 - THE mountains, like the oceans, have always been the home of the marvellous and the terrible from the earliest dawn of history. Man, in the main, was, and still is, an inhabitant of the flat, and fat, places of the earth.
Page 68 - Short stretches of ice of the colour of Plaster of Paris, were encountered, so tough and unbrittle, that the axe-head simply stuck in them, without bringing anything away " (Captain JP Farrar, Alpine Journal, vol.
Page 237 - The writer well remembers standing on the commencement of the Crib Goch ridge of Snowdon one bright winter's day, with Melchior Anderegg, a Swiss guide of almost matchless experience and of great intelligence. The little peak was covered with snow from top to bottom, and looked like a miniature Weisshorn. As the party looked up, the guide was asked how long he thought it would take to reach the summit. It was...