Ocean Waves: The Stochastic Approach

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Cambridge University Press, Jul 21, 2005 - Technology & Engineering - 319 pages
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Waves observed in the ocean are extremely irregular and, from a physics standpoint, it seems impossible to describe this chaotic situation. Scientists can describe the situation by means of a stochastic approach. This book describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis. This method provides a route to predicting the characteristics of random ocean waves--information vital for the design and safe operation of ships and ocean structures. Assuming a basic knowledge of probability theory, the book begins with a chapter describing the essential elements of wind-generated random seas from the stochastic point of view. The following three chapters introduce spectral analysis techniques, probabilistic predictions of wave amplitudes, wave height and periodicity. A further four chapters discuss sea severity, extreme sea state, the directional wave energy spreading in random seas and special wave events such as wave breaking and group phenomena. Finally the stochastic properties of non-Gaussian waves are presented. Useful appendices and an extensive reference list are included. Examples of practical applications of the theories presented can be found throughout the text. This book will be suitable as a text for graduate students of naval, ocean and coastal engineering. It will also serve as a useful reference for research scientists and engineers working in this field.
 

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Contents

1 Description of random seas
1
2 Spectral analysis
13
23 Wave spectral formulations
33
24 Modification of wave spectrum for moving systems
50
25 Higherorder spectral analysis
52
3 Wave amplitude and height
58
4 Wave height and associated period
103
5 Sea severity
123
75 Formulation of the wave energy spreading function
216
8 Special wave events
218
82 Group waves
232
83 Freak waves
252
9 NonGaussian waves waves in finite water depth
255
Appendix A Fundamentals of probability theory
283
Appendix B Fundamentals of stochastic process theory
294
Appendix C Fourier transform and Hilbert transform
300

6 Estimation of extreme wave height and sea state
149
7 Directional characteristics of random seas
175
74 Estimation of directional energy spreading from data
196

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