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Finite periodic stationary gravity waves in a perfect liquid By W G Penney F R S
The dispersion under gravity of a column of fluid supported on a rigid horizontal plane
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amplitude angle of contact approximately auto-correlation axial symmetry axis barrier base surge Bernoulli's equation Bikini bottom boundary conditions calculated column in vacuo correlogram corresponding crest curve cushion type density depth diffraction waves distance-correlation coefficient energy expansion experimental expression fifth order fluid column Fourier series free surface function give given greatest height harmonics Hence incident waves initial interface internal waves J. C. MARTIN mathematical maximum amplitude maximum height mean current meters method method of characteristics modulated motion Mulberry harbours node numerical solution obtained oscillations particle periodic stationary waves plane symmetric column pressure problem progressive waves ratio records Rectangular section reduced region rest rigid breakwater satisfy scale second order Semicircular section shape shown in figure shows smoothing SN(s surface waves surge front Table tank theory travelling waves trough two-dimensional values velocity potential vertical accelerations wave height wave pattern wave profile wave-length zero