Reimagining Marginalized Foods: Global Processes, Local Places

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Elizabeth Finnis
University of Arizona Press, Nov 1, 2012 - Social Science - 168 pages
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With globalization has come an increased focus on food—where it comes from, how it is transported, who eats it, and what cultural significance it has. This volume brings together ethnographically based anthropological analyses of shifting meanings and representations associated with the foods, ingredients, and cooking practices of marginalized and/or indigenous cultures. Contributors are particularly interested in how these foods intersect with politics, nationhood and governance, identity, authenticity, and conservation.



The chapters cover diverse locales, issues, and foods: the cultural meanings of sinonggi, a thick sago porridge from Sulawesi, Indonesia; the significance of pom, a Surinam dish popular in the Netherlands; the transformation of alpaca meat in Peru; the impact of culinary tourism on indigenous cuisine in Mexico; the re-presenting of minor millets in South India; and the development of cheeses in the Italian Alps. A conceptual essay on food and social boundaries rounds out the collection.

Throughout, the contributors address important questions, including: How are traditional foods "repackaged" in the process of mainstreaming access? What does this repackaging mean for the ways local or indigenous peoples view their traditional food practices? How are local cuisines mobilized in movements to create national images and identities? What tensions emerge between new representations of foods and local cultural meanings?

Together the contributors provide a thoughtful inquiry into what happens when food and culinary practices are moved from the cultural or physical margins, and how such movements can be shaped by—and employed in the pursuit of—political, social, and cultural goals.


 

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Contents

Introduction Elizabeth Finnis
1
Marginal Foods and Social Boundaries Richard Wilk
15
The Transformation of Alpaca Meat Lisa Markowitz
34
3 Redefining the Cultural Meanings of Sinonggi during the Indonesian Decentralization Era Wini P Utari
49
The Politics of Culinary Tourism in Indigenous Communities in Rural Mexico Lois Stanford
67
5 Discovering Poms Potential Karin Vaneker
88
6 Redefining and Representing Minor Millets in South India Elizabeth Finnis
109
7 Developing Cheese at the Foot of the Alps Cristina Grasseni
133
Culture Tradition and Political Economy John Brett
156
About the Contributors
167
Index
171
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About the author (2012)

Elizabeth Finnis is an associate professor in the Department of Sociology and Anthropology at the University of Guelph in Guelph, Ontario, Canada.

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