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His Lordship the Poet and Body Surfer
A Tribute to George Freeththe Man from Waikiki
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ahead ancient Hawaiians Australia Banzai Pipeline began big hump big-wave Blake body surf body surfer bottom boys break breaker caught Club Coast comber contestants Courtesy of Dr crash crest diving Duke Kahanamoku Duke's Eugene Burdick face feet long felt fins foam forward Freeth George Freeth giant Gidget green Greg Noll gull Hank Hawaii head Hermosa Hermosa Beach Honolulu hundred inches Islands Jack London John Heath Ball kick knew legs lifeguard looked Malibu Mike Mike's mile native Ninth Wave Oahu ocean olo boards Pacific paddled permission picture Rick Griffin ride rider roar rolled Ron Drummond sand Shelby shoot shore shoreward shot shoulder Sights of Surfing Sites and Sights slid slide South Seas speed stood storm Sunset Beach surf area surf-bathing surf-riding Surf's surface surfboard surfers swells swimmer swimming turned United States Surfing Waikiki Beach Waimea waiting watched white water yards