Surfing: The Ultimate Guide

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ABC-CLIO, 2011 - Social Science - 155 pages
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"The Pipeline" in O'ahu, Hawaii. "Maverick's Point" in northern California. "Ours" near Sydney, Australia. All over the world, extreme surfers risk severe injury or even death from riptides, shark attacks, and collisions with the seabed itself, just to experience the ultimate high from tackling--and triumphing over--one of the most powerful forces on earth.

"Surfing: The Ultimate Guide" explains the culture of extreme surfing--including the often violent "locals only" mentality--and analyzes the dangers involved in riding the world's biggest and most ferocious waves. The author examines the history of extreme surfing, including past and contemporary heroes; the science of giant waves; the technical criteria for riding them; and the future of big-wave riding.

 

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Contents

Chapter 1 Explanations
1
Chapter 2 Origins
21
Chapter 3 Science
37
Chapter 4 Breaks
59
Chapter 5 Heroes
81
Chapter 6 Technicalities
101
Chapter 7 Futures
119
Glossary
131
Bibliography
135
Index
147
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About the author (2011)

Douglas Booth is professor of sports studies and dean of the School of Physical Education at The University of Otago, New Zealand.

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