Surfing: A History of the Ancient Hawaiian Sport
Surfing traces the history of the sport from its beginnings in ancient Hawaii through the mid 1960s. This revised edition of the 1966 classic features extensive illustrations, a new introduction, and articles by Mark Twain and Jack London recounting their observations on surfing. The book also explores the development of the surfboard and follows surfing's timeline from the earliest legends to the accomplishments of modern surfing heroes.
What people are saying - Write a review
We haven't found any reviews in the usual places.
alaia boards ali'i Ancient Hawaiian Aotearoa Australian balsa beach began Bishop Museum body-surfing bodyboard bottom breaker California called catch a wave caught century Championships chiefess chiefs coast comber COURTESY BISHOP MUSEUM crest Duke Kahanamoku early edge famous feet long fiberglass foam Ford George Freeth Haole Hawaiian sport Hawaiian surfing he'e nalu heiau Honolulu inches island of Hawai'i Jack London Kamehameha Kanaka kapu Kaua'i Kona kukui land legend lehua lifesaving Makaha Maui miles missionaries Mo'ikeha modern Naihe nalu north swell nose O'ahu offshore okina olo boards Pacific Islands paddle Paumalu Peruvian PHOTO COURTESY BISHOP PIkoi plank Polynesian redwood ridden rider riding techniques riding waves rode rolling shape shore shoreward skill sliding slope South standing surf chant Surf Club Surf Lifesaving surf rises surf-riding surf-ski surfboard surfers surfing places surfing spots surfing waves surfing's swimming Tahiti Tahitian tion voyage wave-riding wiliwili