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DETERMINATION OF THE WAVE SHAPE 9
DETERMINATION OF ENERGY LOSS IN
TRANSIENT POWER REQUIREMENT
apex breaking wave channel unity counter-current critical depth critical velocity Drag coefficient drag force energy dissipated F Vr flow plane fluid friction foot per wave forced wave forward edge free surface elevation Friction coefficient ft sec/ft ft/sec Galilean Transformation gentle head loss HP/ft hump is fixed hump is moving hydrodynamic friction lateral walls lb/ft lbs/ft limited wave linear foot LIST OF NOTATIONS loss by hydrodynamic loss of energy Mechanical Propulsion Mehaute moving hump moving hydraulic jump NOTATIONS AND DIMENSIONS obstacle plunging breaker power requirement propelling propulsion system rate of energy relative velocity required power Scale factor scale model investigation shown on Figure slope spilling breaker surfboard tion Total discharge total energy loss Total momentum flux Total shearing force trailing end transient unit of width upstream wall and bottom wall friction water depth water jets water level Water Waves wave length wave profile