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BASIC HYDRODY NAMIC PRINCIPLES
DETERMINATION OF THE WAVE SHAPE
DETERMINATION OF ENERGY LOSS IN
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apex backwater curve breaking wave channel unity critical depth critical velocity Drag coefficient drag force energy dissipated Fe Vf Figure Figure Figure flow plane fluid friction foot per wave forced wave forward edge free surface elevation Friction coefficient Galilean Transformation gentle head loss HP/ft hump is fixed hump is moving hydrodynamic friction lateral walls lbs/ft linear foot LIST OF NOTATIONS loss by hydrodynamic loss of energy Mechanical Propulsion Méhauté moving hump moving hydraulic jump NOTATIONS AND DIMENSIONS obstacle plunging breaker power requirement propelling propulsion system pumping system rate of energy relative velocity required power Scale factor scale model investigation shown on Figure solitary wave spilling breaker surfing tion Total discharge total energy loss Total shearing force trailing end transient unit of width upstream velocity Vf wall friction water depth water jets water level Water Waves wave length wave profile