The Hakka Cookbook: Chinese Soul Food from around the World

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University of California Press, Oct 8, 2012 - Cooking - 312 pages
Veteran food writer Linda Lau Anusasananan opens the world of Hakka cooking to Western audiences in this fascinating chronicle that traces the rustic cuisine to its roots in a history of multiple migrations. Beginning in her grandmother’s kitchen in California, Anusasananan travels to her family’s home in China, and from there fans out to embrace Hakka cooking across the globe—including Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, Canada, Peru, and beyond. More than thirty home cooks and chefs share their experiences of the Hakka diaspora as they contribute over 140 recipes for everyday Chinese comfort food as well as more elaborate festive specialties.

This book likens Hakka cooking to a nomadic type of "soul food," or a hearty cooking tradition that responds to a shared history of hardship and oppression. Earthy, honest, and robust, it reflects the diversity of the estimated 75 million Hakka living in China and greater Asia, and in scattered communities around the world—yet still retains a core flavor and technique. Anusasananan’s deep personal connection to the tradition, together with her extensive experience testing and developing recipes, make this book both an intimate journey of discovery and an exciting introduction to a vibrant cuisine.

 

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Contents

Introduction
1
Popos Kitchen on Gold Mountain California
15
Hakka Cooking in the Homeland China
35
Leaving the Mainland Taiwan Singapore Malaysia and Mauritius
87
Across the Pacific Peru Hawaii and Tahiti
135
Multiple Migrations Toronto and New York
157
Return to Gold Mountain
197
The Hakka Kitchen
235
The Hakka Pantry
247
Basic Recipes
267
Table of Equivalents
271
Bibliography
273
Index
279
Copyright

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About the author (2012)

Linda Lau Anusasananann was recipe editor and food writer for Sunset Magazine for 34 years. She also served as a special consultant to cookbooks such as Sunset Chinese, Sunset Oriental, Sunset Wok, Sunset Seafood, and Sunset Pasta. She was the president of the Association of Chinese Cooking Teachers and president of the San Francisco Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier. Artist Alan Lau wrote and illustrated Blues and Greens, a Produce Worker's Journal.

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